Some of you have already stumbled upon our tribute to jeepneys in the photograph section of this website. Normally, I’m not at all interested in vehicles. I can barely distinguish a Jaguar from a Hyundai without first looking at the symbol on the steering wheel. But since jeepneys have been a daily source of visual entertainment and amusement while we’ve been here in Philippines, I couldn’t very well leave them unmentioned in this journal.
Jeepneys were originally built by modifying left over American army surplus military jeeps after WWII. The war had destroyed almost all engine-driven vehicles, and people were in dire need of transportation. The Americans had a dilemma about how to dispose of the surplus jeeps rusting away at various depots. A mutually convenient solution materialized.
The war vehicles were sold to Filipinos who then transformed them into commercial transportation units. The jeepney became a permanent solution to the postwar transportation problem. And everywhere in the Philippines, jeepney owners enthusiastically shouted, “Let the decorating begin!”
Ornamentation is what makes the jeepneys unique, not only from other forms of transport but also from one another. Jeepneys are like Filipino snowflakes, in that no two are alike.
Indeed, it seems every aspect of the jeepney is designed for function and more importantly, embellishment. First and foremost, the long, smooth side of the jeepney is the ultimate painter's canvas and is often decorated with anything from Disney collages to astrological tributes to vistas of American cities. The bumper is not just to ward off bumps, but to hold more artwork. Even the mud flaps are prettified with a sun motif, or five stars surrounding the title of a popular or sentimental song such as "Love Me Tender” or “You're My Everything.” The ceiling is another lovely space for assorted designs such as the names of the operator's family members, the titles of some popular songs, or comic strips with Garfield being a clear favourite.
Painting aside, there are many other aspects of the decoration that rely on a more homey style of ornament. One cannot help but notice the jeepney’s wide side windows with the red and yellow cloth or crocheted curtains, the jalousies, and when it rains, the plastic awning that is let down.
By looking at the photos I’ve posted, you might wonder how the driver is able to see the road through all that hood ornamentation. Useless antennas, countless headlights, beaded curtains, and hubcaps block the already narrow view out the front window. The truth is, the driver’s can’t see. And you only need to attempt to cross the street in this city to discover that jeepneys, and every other Manila driver for that matter, see pedestrians as blobs of air that can simply be blown aside with a gentle swipe of the front bumper.
Since traffic lights here are mere suggestions, pedestrians do not have the right of way and fervently skirt across the street quickly to avoid bodily harm. Manila has been voted the worst city in the world for motorists and many have exclaimed that there are people who pay much more money to drive under less challenging conditions in videogames. But I think drivers in this city who complain about this have never tried crossing the street!
In recent history, there have been many attempts to eliminate the jeepney from the transportation scheme with good reason. Compared to buses, jeepneys are more wasteful since they sit fewer people, uses up almost as much gasoline, and spend almost as much on tires and spare parts. Numbering 27,000 in Manila alone, they aggravate the energy crisis, perpetuate dependence on multi-national corporations, and crowd the streets.
Crowding of streets is what Manila needs least. Traffic here is in such a crisis that the days you are allowed to drive your car depends on the number of your license plate. And demonstrative of traffic woes, in Tagalog, “traffic” is not just a mere noun, but also an adjective, “matrapik”, and the most widely used excuse for just about anything.
All the attempts however, have failed seemingly because the jeepney is now part of the Filipino cultural identity and the overwhelming favoured mode of transport. And so this joyous vehicle that is literature, pop art, ambulant home, statement of belief and personality, and, at the moment, King of the Road, will remain.
Happy New Year everyone! We're celebrating by listening to our new favourite band Die Moulinettes, a 50 ml. bottle of amaretto, and a Crazy Eights championship. Woohoo!
tothesea,
k~*
P.S. FYI, we "borrowed" the Jeepney poem...